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Chasing Northern Lights: A Thanksgiving in Jasper's Dark Sky Wonderland

Updated: Dec 5

As I sift through photos from a few Thanksgivings ago, memories of our Canadian Rockies adventure flood back with crystal clarity. The open road has a way of whispering promises of adventure, and our journey to Jasper, Alberta proved that sometimes the most magical memories begin with a simple decision to explore.

Westbound on Highway 16

Our journey began in Edmonton, where we traded city streets for the scenic Highway 16 – a four-hour drive that felt less like a journey and more like a meditation on nature's beauty. The landscape unfolded like a living postcard, with endless forests and mountain silhouettes spurring us forward.


Base Camp: Pyramid Lake Lodge

Nestled in the heart of Jasper National Park, our home base at Pyramid Lake Lodge was nothing short of magical. Dating back to the last ice age, this glacial basin has been a sacred gathering place for the Athabasca Chipewyan First Nations long before European settlers arrived, serving as an important fishing and hunting ground for indigenous communities. Mornings here were crisp and clear, with the kind of silence that makes you feel like you've discovered a secret world. We'd start our days exploring Pyramid Island – a tiny jewel of land connected by a narrow bridge, where the stillness was broken only by the occasional call of a distant bird or the gentle lapping of water against the shore. At night, we enjoyed the picturesque lakeside dining featuring unique dishes and local produce.



Wildlife and Rush Hour, Jasper Style

If you think rush hour is about traffic and stress, Jasper has a different definition entirely. Here, elk casually stroll across the main road, creating their own version of a traffic jam. We quickly learned that in this UNESCO Dark Sky Preserve – the world's largest accessible dark sky preserve, protecting over 11,000 square kilometers from light pollution – nature sets the pace. Spotting these majestic creatures became a daily delight – a reminder that we were visitors in their home.


Stargazing and Northern Lights

The real magic happened after dark. Just steps from our lodge, we joined local guides at the Pyramid Lake docks for an astronomical experience that words can barely capture. In this dark sky preserve, the night sky isn't just black – it's a canvas of infinite stars, with the potential of the Northern Lights dancing above us. The Milky Way stretched out so clearly, it felt like we could reach out and touch the universe.


Downtown Discoveries

Downtown Jasper, centered around Patricia Street and Connaught Drive, tells a rich story of Canadian frontier spirit. Established in 1813 as a fur trading post, the town emerged directly from the Canadian Pacific Railway's expansion, with the area officially incorporated in 1929 to serve as a critical transportation hub and gateway to the Rocky Mountain wilderness. We spent hours exploring quaint stores, each with its own story, picking up local crafts and souvenirs that would become cherished memories of our adventure.


Festive Moments and Scenic Stops

A lunch at the Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge was a treat during our trip. Developed in the 1920s by the Canadian National Railway as a luxury wilderness retreat, the lodge was designed to attract tourists to the stunning beauty of the Canadian Rockies. Its iconic green-roofed cabins became a symbol of Canadian hospitality and wilderness luxury. We wandered the grounds around Lake Beauvert, capturing holiday photos that would later remind us of this moment of pure, unadulterated beauty.


Our day trip to Maligne Canyon revealed nature's most profound storytelling. Carved over 170 million years by glacial and river erosion, this limestone canyon is one of the deepest in the Rockies. Indigenous peoples used these valleys for hunting and spiritual practices long before European explorers first documented the area in the late 19th century.



The Wanderlust Takeaway

As another Thanksgiving is upon us, we find ourselves deeply grateful for memories like these. They remind us that the best gifts often come wrapped in unexpected packages – like a spontaneous decision to drive north in search of stars. That Thanksgiving taught us that gratitude isn't just about counting our blessings at the dinner table; sometimes it's about chasing them down scenic highways, finding them in elk-crossing traffic jams, and discovering them painted across dark sky canvases.

The magic of Jasper still lingers. In a world that often moves too fast, this journey reminded us of the humbling beauty in slowing down, looking up, and letting nature guide the way. Those long roads we took? They weren't just passages through the Canadian wilderness – they were pathways to discovering that wonder still exists, that beauty still surprises, and that sometimes the best way to give thanks is to simply stand in awe of this magnificent world we share. Sono grata.


As the great John Muir once said, "The mountains are calling, and I must go." And go we did. In doing so, we found not just an escape, but a deeper connection to the natural world and to each other. And isn't that what wanderlust is really about?


*Pro tip: Pack layers, bring a sense of adventure, and always, always look up.


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