More than halfway through our journey, Nova Scotia welcomed us with a perfect blend of culture, cuisine, and coastal charm in both Sydney and Halifax. The seemingly endless coastline, dotted with lighthouses and fishing villages, stretched before us like a living postcard, inviting us to dive deep into the heart of Canada's cultural mosaic.
Sydney: A Symphony of Culture
Sydney greeted us with the lively sounds of a fiddle at the port, immediately setting the tone for a day steeped in Cape Breton culture.
The music seemed to follow us through the streets as we made our way to St. George's Anglican Church, its historic architecture a window to the city's rich past. From what we learned, construction began around 1785, the same year Sydney was founded. The church was built by the 33rd Regiment of Foot and was the first permanent structure in Sydney. St. George's was the only Christian church on the island for most of the time, and served as the British garrison chapel until 1854. St. George's was granted a Royal Pew and became the official place of worship for members of the Royal Family when they visited. Many prominent citizens from Sydney's colonial period are buried in St. George's Graveyard. It is the oldest building in Sydney and the oldest church on Cape Breton. It is the fourth oldest Anglican Church in Canada.
Hunger led us to Governor's Pub & Eatery, where local flavors reminded us why Maritime cuisine has much diversity to offer its visitors. Seafood all around for our group, plus a Mediterranean touch with gyros for us. Post-lunch, we dove into the local shopping scene, starting with the adjacent Get Nauti souvenir store being a standout among the charming shops we explored.
We visited the Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design which is a gallery shop with over 100 Cape Breton artisans' work, including jewelry, pottery, textiles, and more. The center also hosts exhibitions and craft workshops, and offers a shopping concierge service. A highlight of wandering their downtown was stumbling upon the HAT (Highland Arts Theater) mural celebrating strong women - a perfect photo opportunity and a powerful reminder of the region's inclusive spirit. Formerly the home of St. Andrew’s Church, it was decommissioned in 2013, and local musician and businessman Kevin Colford led the efforts to transform the historical building into a state of the art center for arts and culture.
One of the most captivating discoveries of our Sydney visit was learning about sea glass archaeology. The shores of Cape Breton hold secrets of a bustling past, where diverse populations once thrived along the coast. The history of settlement in Cape Breton is as varied as the sea glass found on its shores.
The Mi'kmaq people were the original inhabitants of Cape Breton, living on the island for thousands of years before European contact. The first wave of European settlers arrived in the early 16th century, with French colonists establishing a presence around 1713, forming the colony of Île Royale. After the British conquest in 1758, the island saw an influx of British settlers, including many Scottish Highlanders fleeing the Highland Clearances in the late 18th and early 19th centuries.
The 19th century brought further diversity to Cape Breton's shores. Irish immigrants arrived in large numbers, especially during and after the Great Famine of the 1840s. Eastern European Jews found refuge here in the early 20th century. The island's rich coal deposits attracted workers from various backgrounds, including Italian, Eastern European, and Caribbean immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Each of these groups left their mark on Cape Breton's culture - and unknowingly, in the glass debris that would one day wash up on its shores. As we explored local shops, we learned that these diverse settlers left behind more than just stories – they left fragments of their daily lives in the form of discarded glass. Over decades, sometimes centuries, the relentless Atlantic waves have transformed these shards into smooth, frosted pieces of sea glass. What was once considered waste has become a treasured part of Cape Breton's heritage. Local artisans have turned this archaeological windfall into a thriving craft, creating stunning jewelry and art pieces from these surf-tumbled gems.
The history behind each piece of sea glass is as colorful as the glass itself. Bottles that once held medicines, household products, or perhaps a sailor's rum ration now tell a story of resilience and transformation. A piece of green glass might have come from a wine bottle brought by French settlers, while a blue shard could be from a medicine bottle used by Scottish immigrants. The process of waves and sand turning sharp edges into smooth contours mirrors the way time has shaped Sydney's own history, blending diverse cultures into a unique Cape Breton identity.
Captivated by this unique blend of history and artistry, I couldn't resist purchasing a small piece for myself – a necklace with a green, Atlantic Ocean-shaped piece of sea glass by local artist and Cape Breton explorer Mike Baran of Sea Glass Archaeology. Karen a part of his team, and working the day we visited, provided a brief history of the coast and the passion and work that goes into uncovering these pieces of glass and how they transform them into pieces of art/jewelry. As she packaged my necklace, I realized I was taking home more than just a beautiful accessory. This small pendant would serve as a tangible reminder of Cape Breton's thriving coastal community, past and present, the diverse peoples who have called this island home, and the enduring connection between people and the sea.
As the day wound down and we made our way back to port, the siren call of a Canadian classic proved irresistible. A sweet, warm BeaverTail was the perfect treat to end our Sydney adventure, leaving us with sticky fingers and satisfied smiles.
____________
Pronti? Via! During our exploration of Quebec and the Canadian Maritimes, we opted for independent travel arrangements rather than organized tours. We found local operators, ventured out on our own, or used trusted booking platforms like Viator. For suggestions tailored to your interests and group size, check out our Viator Shop featuring our "Quebec & Canadian Maritimes Must-Do Experiences". We've curated options to enhance your Maritime adventure. Happy travels!
Comments